BUSINESSFEATURED STORYLIFESTYLE

The Bank Betting Big on Africa’s Fashion Future

For designers in Kenya and East Africa more broadly, Afreximbank’s strategy could open doors: access to capital, to manufacturing infrastructure, and — crucially — to global markets.

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Models walk on the catwalk while showcasing designs at the main fashion show during the Kibera Fashion Week in the informal settlement of Kibera in Nairobi, on October 15, 2023. (Photo by LUIS TATO / AFP)
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When we think of banking, we rarely imagine runway shows, textile mills — or runway-ready African designers. But for Cairo-based Afreximbank, that vision has become reality. Across the continent, the bank is backing everything from garment factories in East and West Africa to high-fashion showcases in Paris, betting that Africa’s creative economy is not just culturally rich — but commercially viable.

Known historically for trade and infrastructure financing, Afreximbank has doubled down on the continent’s creative potential through a massive $2 billion programme, the Creative African Nexus (Canex). The fund supports projects in fashion, film, music, art, literature, gastronomy and sports — but fashion has emerged as one of its most visible bets.

The bank is financing upstream: building textile and garment-manufacturing clusters in cotton-producing countries such as Benin and Nigeria. But it’s also investing downstream — underwriting export-market access for African designers, covering costs for trade shows, showroom fees, PR, logistics, travel and mentorship.

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Kenyan fashion designer Hellen Wanjiru works on one of her designs at a sewing workshop in Nairobi, on September 25, 2023, ahead of the Kibera Fashion Week. (Photo by LUIS TATO / AFP).

For a continent where raw cotton is often shipped abroad only to return as finished goods, Afreximbank’s vision is strategic: to keep the value chain — from fibre to fashion — within Africa. As one industry partner put it, “African cotton shouldn’t travel 10,000 kilometres just to create value abroad.”

Part of the bank’s strategy involves convening the “ecosystem” — designers, manufacturers, financiers — under one roof. At pitch sessions in Algiers, designers from across Africa showcase their labels to angel investors, with some receiving small grants and potential investment. For example, a Zimbabwean accessories brand reportedly secured six-figure funding and expanded to nearly 50 international stores after joining the programme.

Still, the move hasn’t been without critics. Some argue that early-stage “activations” — showrooms, pop-ups, grants — may raise visibility but don’t necessarily equal long-term investment or structural change. As one Nigerian designer put it, more seasoned, commercially viable brands — not nascent labels — may deserve that capital most.

One of the most visible outcomes of Afreximbank’s intervention is facilitating African designers’ entry into major global retail and fashion circuits. Through partnerships with established fashion platforms and trade shows — including a “pop-up” in Paris with luxury retailer Galeries Lafayette and trade show Tranoi — emerging labels from Ghana, Nigeria, Kenya and beyond have exhibited in prime international venues.

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Fashion models gather as they listen to the indications given by a fashion designer during a fitting session at a fashion studio in Kibera in Nairobi, on September 20, 2023, ahead of the Kibera Fashion Week. (Photo by LUIS TATO / AFP).

For many designers, such exposure can open doors that would otherwise remain closed: new retail contracts, wider global reach, and access to international buyers. One Tunisian designer said that after being included in a Canex export initiative, her pieces began selling at a boutique in Zanzibar — a trajectory that would have taken years to achieve independently.

For Afreximbank, this is not about funding one-off collections. Their aim appears systemic: to build an ecosystem where African fashion is sustainable, scalable, and competitive globally — from cotton fields to couture. The bank’s CEO has described the institution as “a force for industrialising Africa and for regaining dignity of Africans wherever they are.”

By supporting manufacturing clusters, quality-assurance centres, trade-show participation and investor matchmaking, Afreximbank is attempting to fill multiple gaps at once — capital, logistics, market access, credibility. The hope is that, over time, African fashion will evolve from a niche creative scene into a robust industry with full value-chain integration.

For designers in Kenya and East Africa more broadly, Afreximbank’s strategy could open doors: access to capital, to manufacturing infrastructure, and — crucially — to global markets.

If I were advising an emerging Nairobi-based label, I’d say: this is the moment to polish your business plan, think about scale and sustainability, and explore how you could plug into emerging continental networks. The possibilities — from sourcing raw materials to participating in pan-African trade shows — are expanding rapidly.

At the same time, it’s worth watching carefully which players get funded, how sustainable their growth is, and whether the promised “value-chain integration” becomes reality — or remains mostly symbolic.

Written by
OORO GEORGE -

Ooro George is a Kenyan journalist, blogger, editor-at-large, art critic and cross-cultural curator.

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